Saturday, December 7, 2013

Thoughts on Vintage Side Slit Skirts and Modesty

A Bhuz member asked for assistance on getting that "vintage Turkish slit skirt look" while also preserving modesty.  The following comments were my response, adapted slightly so that they may be useful to you as well.


For the skirt pattern:
  • Pick the style based on the number you will do. Side slits cut so that the skirt is sliced in half (front to back, i.e. down the outside of the leg) flare ridiculously when you spin. They work in some contexts; but, they "get in the way" unless your dance consists of lunge poses. Most slit styles are either slit so that 1) the front an back panels meet right over the protrusion of the pelvic bone and so that the panels are about an inch apart; OR, 2) they are cut the same way and the font panel is just gathered more so that it falls more between the legs (gathered to about 3-5" across). The really good news is that, with a little construction forethought, you can make the skirt so that it rides loose on the elastic waist and then pin it to where you want it, pinning the fabric to the elastic. You can even adjust placement of the slits as you practice or at a break in the set, especially if you make the back panel gathered, so that it works well with your number. (Some embellish the waist. I never do that, as that is what my belts are for.)
  • AND, no one says the skirt has to be a circle skirt -- you can get some very nice skirts out of plain old rectangular panels, cut so that 2/3 of the length is in the back and 1/3 is in the front. These will flair less when spinning, can be layered with other skirts nicely, and can be made out of heavier fabrics, like a gorgeous brocade. AND, these don't have to be hung to give, in general.

For the modesty aspect:
  • I have been studying Turkish costumes a fair amount recently. In studying photos and seeing a scant few vintage pieces in person, let me tell you something few have called out -- Turkish dancers with the more revealing costumes actually attached the skirt in between their belt and their underwear, making a fabric sandwich that stayed put. Everything has to be perfectly fitted for this to work, but, basting threads and an assistant to help the fit can make it happen. Just don't over hydrate and be sure not to sew yourself "into" the costume so that you cannot get out.
  • If that is not an option (and it is for only a very few of us), you can use pins to get the same effect. Dressing and undressing will take longer; and, you will still have to have a perfectly fitted belt with a curve along the backside and the right V in the front to get the right look/
  • If that is not an option, sheer harem pants with side slits are dead sexy, very vintage, and pretty easy to make. See https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...7804276&type=3 for my method, which works for both harem and flare leg pants.
  • Another option is to attach the side panels using rows of beads, with the length set so that they slightly drape when standing still and hold the panels just the right distance apart when spinning. Chains work in a pinch, too. Old necklaces can be repurposed for this. AND, I have seen this on dear Tulay, too.
  • When in doubt, there is nothing easier or more vintage than a good, old fashioned "drop skirt." This is something you RARELY see anymore, and it's a shame. A "drop skirt" is just a panel of fabric, about as wide as your pelvic bones are apart, and long enough that you can tuck and attach it in the front to the waistband of (your skirt, underpants, etc.) and in the back to to the waistband of (your skirt, underpants, etc.). Make the length just short enough and narrow enough so that you don't get your foot caught in it when you dance. A veil works in an absolute pinch; but, my favorite are the long, rectangular holiday scarves out this time of year. (I buy them on Jan 2nd when the price plummets and use them later.)